Treasuredo

What Do 17 Jewels and Incabloc Mean on a Watch Dial?

Vintage dials are full of small print: 17 Jewels, 21 Rubis, Incabloc, Antimagnetic. Here is what the two most common terms mean.

Jewels

Jewels are tiny synthetic rubies used as bearings inside the movement. Metal pivots turn in them with very little friction and wear, which keeps the watch accurate for longer.

More jewels than this rarely means better timekeeping. Rubis is simply the French word for the same thing.

Incabloc

Incabloc is a shock protection system introduced in 1934. The balance wheel, the most delicate part of the watch, sits in jewels held by a small lyre-shaped spring. When the watch is knocked, the spring lets the jewel move and then return to position, so the fine pivot does not break.

Antimagnetic

This means parts of the movement are made of alloys that resist magnetism. It helps, but a vintage watch should still be kept away from speakers, phone cases with magnets and bag clasps.

Read next

In our shop now

Vintage 1970s Henri Sandoz & Fils 17 Jewels Mechanical Silver Sunburst Dial 35mmVintage 1970s Henri Sandoz & Fils 17 Jewels Mechanical Silver Sunburst Dial 35mm$348Vintage 1970s Olma Duo-Date Automatic 25 Jewels Blue Dial Day Date TV Case 35mmVintage 1970s Olma Duo-Date Automatic 25 Jewels Blue Dial Day Date TV Case 35mm$418Vintage 1970s Kody France Manual Wind 17J Gold Plated 33mm Expanding Band WatchVintage 1970s Kody France Manual Wind 17J Gold Plated 33mm Expanding Band Watch$166Vintage 1960s Buren 17J Manual Wind Gold Sunburst Dial Dress Watch 32.5mm w BoxVintage 1960s Buren 17J Manual Wind Gold Sunburst Dial Dress Watch 32.5mm w Box$438Vintage 1940s Helvetia Cal. 800C 17J Manual 34mm Steel Military Style Dial WatchVintage 1940s Helvetia Cal. 800C 17J Manual 34mm Steel Military Style Dial Watch$191Vintage 60s Zodiac Hermetic Cal 330 17J Manual Gold Plated Sub Sec 36mm WatchVintage 60s Zodiac Hermetic Cal 330 17J Manual Gold Plated Sub Sec 36mm Watch$202Vintage 50s Tissot Bumper Automatic 6582-2 17J Champagne Patina Dial Watch BoxVintage 50s Tissot Bumper Automatic 6582-2 17J Champagne Patina Dial Watch Box$572Vintage Nivada Boutique Ladies Tank Watch Red Dial Stones Swiss Manual 17J 23mmVintage Nivada Boutique Ladies Tank Watch Red Dial Stones Swiss Manual 17J 23mm$792
Get new arrivals by email