Vintage Persol Ratti Sunglasses: What to Look For

Persol was founded in Turin in 1917 by Giuseppe Ratti, who began by making protective glasses for pilots and racing drivers. Frames made while the company was still run by the Ratti family are stamped Persol Ratti and are the ones collectors look for. The company was bought by Luxottica in 1995, and later frames carry only the Persol name.

The two signatures

The arrow. The silver arrow on the hinge, called the Supreme Arrow or Freccia, was inspired by the swords of ancient warriors and appears on almost every model.
Meflecto. Patented in the 1930s, this is the row of small metal cylinders set into the temple. It lets the arm flex so the frame sits on the head without pressure. On vintage frames you can see the segments along the arm.

Models worth knowing

649, designed in 1957 for Turin tram drivers who needed large lenses against dust.
714, the folding version, made famous by Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair in 1968.
Ratti-era numbered models such as the 6200, 6201 and 6659, usually in black acetate with brown gradient glass lenses.

Reading the markings

Look inside the temples for "Persol Ratti", the model number and "Made in Italy". Sizes are written as lens width and bridge width in millimetres, for example 53-18. Original lenses are mineral glass and feel heavier than modern plastic.

Condition

Check that the Meflecto arms still flex evenly, that the acetate has not shrunk or turned white at the edges, and that both arrows are present. Light marks on glass lenses are normal for frames that are fifty or sixty years old.