Buying a Vintage Watch Online: 7 Things to Check

A vintage watch has lived a life before it reaches you. These seven checks take a few minutes and prevent most disappointments.

1. The dial

The dial holds most of the value. Zoom in on the printing. Original text is crisp and evenly spaced. Even ageing, often called patina, is accepted and often liked. Thick or uneven lettering can mean the dial was repainted.

2. The case back and movement photos

Ask for a photo of the case back, and of the movement if the seller can open the watch. The reference and serial numbers should match the model described.

3. Size in millimetres

Men's watches from the 1950s and 1960s were usually 33 to 36 mm, which is smaller than modern watches. Measure a watch you already own, without the crown, and compare.

4. Running condition

"Working" means it runs and sets. It does not mean it was recently serviced. A mechanical watch needs cleaning and oil every few years, so allow for a service unless the seller shows proof of one.

5. Water resistance

Treat every vintage watch as not water resistant, whatever the dial says. Old gaskets harden with age.

6. Bracelet and strap

An original signed bracelet or buckle adds value. Check the bracelet length if you have a large wrist, because spare links for old bracelets are hard to find.

7. Seller, shipping and returns

Read the feedback, choose tracked express shipping, and make sure returns are accepted. If you are importing, ask what duties to expect so there are no surprises at delivery.